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Deciding that a food media job would be less stressful (but still fun), in April 2016 she applied for a position as a recipe developer at Tasty Japan, the Japanese edition of BuzzFeed’s food media brand Tasty. We have dumplings in Vietnam, but they aren’t as popular as they are in other Asian countries,” says Minh Luong, chef and owner of Tan Lac Vien, in Squirrel Hill, and Tan Lac Vien 2, at Novo Asian Food Hall. Dumplings have a long history in Japan, but their popularity and current preparation are relatively recent. Roger Li, owner of Umami Izakaya in Lawrenceville, believes that’s because modern gyoza, those of the post-World War II era, are a specialty item found in homes or at shops dedicated to the craft of making them. Gyoza — which gets its name from Chinese jiaozi — is Japan’s national dumpling.
Sichuan Impression*
In small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil and chili oil. The sauce will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks. So good, in fact, that she never felt the urge to learn to make them herself. The simple, home-cooked meals her mother, Yoko, and maternal grandmother, Kiyoko, prepared for their rural customers, using seasonal local ingredients and traditional recipes, were far from fancy. Yet their skillful mix of salty, sweet, sour and bitter — key elements in authentic Japanese cuisine — were rich with umami flavor. Luong came to Pittsburgh from New York in 2012 to work at Tan Lac Vien.
Seafood Gyoza
Uncover and continue cooking until the water has completely evaporated and the cornstarch has thickened to a gel-like web at the bottom of the skillet, about 2 minutes. She found herself compromising once again with ingredients in her chase to conjure the flavors of her childhood during a post-college job at Disney World’s Japan Pavilion in Orlando, Fla. But at least she was honing her skills as a cook, which would prove useful in her next job working for a Japanese culinary school.
Steamed, boiled and pan-crisped
The plate was finished with scallion oil, chili oil, green onions and sesame seeds. Handmade every step of the way is the key to the gorgeous mandu served at Bae Bae’s Kitchen. The Downtown restaurant offers chicken and pork dumplings, both mixed with cabbage and green onions. You can get them pan-fried, which adds a nice crispness, but experiencing the supple texture of the steamed version is a real treat. A sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds added as a finishing flourish heightens the depth of flavor of these edible memories of co-owner Edward Lai’s childhood. Chef/owner Simon Chough’s mandu are an exquisite expression of his Korean American heritage.
Lunasia Chinese Cuisine
And, yes, people were doing just that while posing for photos no doubt destined for social media. Wait a few minutes for the first one of these pork-filled soup dumplings to cool before you eat it. That way you’ll be able to actually taste how good the second one is too. For the prettiest pleats, be careful not to overfill the wrappers. Adding a little cornstarch slurry to the pan while cooking the dumplings will create a lacy, crispy crust on the bottom called “hane” — Japanese for wings. Her mom’s recipe also includes seasoning the ground pork filling with grated ginger, soy sauce and sake and adding fresh shiitake mushrooms and lots of finely chopped cabbage for a bit of silky heft.
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The filling combines chicken and pork, boosted by ginger and garlic. Let them cool for a minute before popping these delightful bites into the vibrant dipping sauce. Restaurants build upon familiar options such as mapo tofu and kung pao chicken, and feature harder-to-find items like mung bean jelly tossed in chili oil; wok-fried crab; and the “party in a pot” Leshan bobo chicken pot. Somewhat of a rarity among other Sichuan restaurants in town, Sichuan Impression also offers desserts, including a brown sugar rice cake, and pumpkin mochi wrapped around red bean paste. Enter Dumpling Time’s owner Kash Feng, a native of Xi’an, China. He was inspired by his mother’s recipes but decided to take a cross-cultural approach to the art of Asian dumpling making.
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The best ones in Pittsburgh are now served at Tan Lac Vien 2. Wagyu beef and black truffles are tucked into the outstanding pan-crisped gyoza at Dumpling Time in ... Sign up for our email to enjoy your city without spending a thing (as well as some options when you’re feeling flush). Chubby Noodle in the Marina is our go-to in the neighborhood for a good time and even better food.
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Those memories are carried by Korean American chefs such as Lai and Simon Chough, owner of Soju in Garfield. The history of mandu remains somewhat obscure, yet it is widely acknowledged that their introduction occurred during the 14th century by the Mongol-Chinese Yuan dynasty. This was particularly notable because Korea’s then-ruling Goryeo dynasty followed Buddhist principles that forbade meat consumption. Sign up for our email to enjoy Los Angeles without spending a thing (as well as some options when you’re feeling flush).
Chef Tony Dim Sum
He tends to offer the from scratch dumplings at his Garfield restaurant once or twice a week, so be sure to jump on them if they’re on the menu when you visit (and check Soju’s social media to see when he’s serving). His dumplings have a silky skin filled with a dynamic blend of ingredients and toppings. An April iteration included a mixture of pork, beef, kimchi and tofu perfumed with aromatics and garnished with scallion oil, chili oil, green onions and sesame seeds. Famous across the Southland for their shengjianbao (pan-fried Shanghainese soup dumplings), this casual, cash-only takeout spot with locations in Monterey Park and Alhambra sells a wide, affordable array of Chinese cuisine.
You won’t find the traditional push carts, but it’s always an energetic scene filled with families, friends and dates. There are newer locations in Pasadena, Cerritos and Torrance with slightly smaller menus, if you’re just looking for a quick dim sum hit. Royal Thai cuisine isn’t represented in Pittsburgh (head to Kalaya in Philadelphia). Here, you’ll typically find a different type of dumpling with a more direct Chinese heritage — siu mai. These delicate dumplings with an egg-and-wheat wrapper in Cantonese style are left slightly open at the top and usually decorated with fish roe.
Named the King-Dum, the $10 xiao long bao is so large you’ll need a straw, while the 3 for $5 barbecue pork steamed buns with a touch of peanut butter are our new favorite affordable lunch option. And don't leave without an Instagram-able dessert bun—the colorful doughy puffs are topped with flower petals. Char-siu roasted pork belly stuffed into fluffy buns that we could eat all day long.
The filling is commonly made with pork, shrimp or a combination. Take the leisurely dim sum approach and order a couple of dishes at a time, starting with the wood ear mushroom salad, the marinated cukes finished in a sweet/hot blast of Fresno chili. Every table in the packed dining room seemed to be enjoying the garlic green beans or the snap peas tossed in a pan with loads of fresh ginger.
That means soup dumplings that take a Thai detour with pork belly and coconut milk filling delicate wrappers infused with beet juice. Those tasty beauties — like all the others — are made from scratch throughout the day and diners can watch the process in the open kitchen and glassed-in dumpling room. Nak Won Garden’s mandu — listed on the menu simply as “dumplings” — are filled with pork and beef and have a soft, fragrant aroma. I popped a few of mine into a boiling bowl of kimchi jjigae, where they melded with the tart heat of the stew. Pan-fried, the dumplings served in Nak Won Garden’s homey dining room are crispy comfort food.
They’re served, with golden-brown aplomb, upside down on the plate, with a dipping sauce made from soy sauce, rice vinegar, and sesame and chili oils. As of press time, Seok Kun Han’s gorgeous dumplings are only available on weekends at his Korea Garden 2 restaurant in Novo Asian Food Hall. The dumplings here come out faster than people bring up their dogs on Bumble. There are a few twists on the classics, like a wagyu beef gyoza or lobster siu mai—which is just OK and sounds more interesting than it actually is. Even when you inevitably order everything in sight, you can get in and out for around $30. Listed on the menu as kyoza, the fried dumplings at this Upper Lawrenceville spot hit the nexus of crispy and juicy better than most in Pittsburgh.
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